The Phoenixan Devil and the Phoenixan Angel - Part 1

This one will be short ... but in two parts... the reason being: I have 9 minutes left on my Internet time and I just wanted to let you all know that we're alive and well. I have turned off my phone because phone bills with international calls are HUGE... I haven't been online to blog for a while because certain car hire franchises have taken ALL of my time and money (that'll be the Devil side to the story); but we're OK, because I met an Angel today and all will soon be well with the world.

We're in Phoenix... we relaxed for a few days, crisping by the pool... I then took it upon myself to swim 100 lengths last night... strange things happen in Arizona! Anyway, we're leaving tomorrow, out of this Bermuda Triangle of Manners and Money, and heading for El Paso, where I hope the change to be a vast difference.

The drive from Utah was as good as it was to get there... The views we've seen have been just how I dreamt...and more. The day and a half journey took us through the most bizarre terrain, at some moments, we were alone (much like Devil's Canyon); but then five minutes later, we were in mayhem of Flagstaff and its apparent abundance of automobiles!

Let me quickly tell you about the treats of this place... The Devil incarnated himself in the form of 'Donna' our car rental representative... who didn't know her elbow from her ankle... an hour after we arrived at Sky Harbour Airport; we left with our wallets a little lighter, but plus one car.

I will tell you all about my Angel when I have more time, but for now, know that we are safe and will not soon enough be in the waves of Captiva...

The Stars in Utah Shine Brightly

I can not begin to describe to you how stunningly beautiful Utah is... However, I'm a writer, so I suppose I should attempt it...

Hopping into the car, back in Vegas - resigning myself to the fact that the entire day would be taken up with driving, we began the journey. After a few sketchy moments on the road out of Vegas (due to ridiculous road works), we hit the open road and the views were simply spectacular.

At this point, I was remembering sitting at home, huddled in a hoodie, freezing my tootsies off, planning this route. I wanted to do a kind of 'Thelma and Louise' drive, except without driving off a cliff at the end, without holding up a gas station and without having to shoot anyone... and in a weird way, I felt, as soon as I saw the canyons of Utah - I had achieved this.

Driving in between the red rocked mountains, being the only car on the road, the sun going down - I'd never felt a) so far away from home or b) so very small. But this is what the trip, to me, was all about - discovering... If this was our last day in America, I'd have been content. I was living the dream.

We stopped at 'Devil's Canyon' to take a few photos, it was so quiet and serene and for a few moments it seemed we were the only people in the world, standing so high up - watching the world go by... pretty darn special if you ask me.

So after pulling myself together, we drove the last 40 miles to a little town called Green River. The sun had buried itself by this point and the only things we could make out were the oversized neon signs advertising every chain of motel going. We'd pre booked ours, so checked in and twiddled our thumbs for a bit. Turns out there's not so much to do in Green River...

I love arriving places in the dark, and waking up to see what it's like in the light... except Green River was exactly the same. A sleepy town that rather reminded Cal and I of something out of 'The Texas Chainsaw Massacre'! Desolate gas stations, truck parks, a chainsaw weilding maniac... no I'm joking! But it was slightly worrying, so we punched 'Moab' into 'Nancy' (Our GPS/Sat Nav lady annoys me so much, I thought she may as well have a name, so when we're arguing, it can be more personal) so, we drove another 40 miles to Moab and I fell in love.

Moab, Utah has been my favourite stop thus far. It's like a 21st century version of the old cowboy towns you saw in those old Western films. I expect to see John Wayne soon! Encircled within more red rocked mountains and canyons, crossing the Colorado River to get into town, it's just perfect.

We had a pizza, booked a horse ride, picked up some beers and drove 'home' (saving the beer until we'd got back, of course!)

Anyway, that's when I saw them... stars like I've never seen them before, so bright it was almost unreal. The entire sky was engulfed in a blanket full of them, I felt I could just reach up and take one. I literally would have laid on the floor of the car park and watched them all night if it wasn't for the fact that it was freeeezing! We don't have stars that bright at home, but that goes hand in hand with not living in the middle of nowhere! Utah - best stars...so far.

Hang on.... we booked a horse ride??!! Haven't done that for a while... 5 years to be precise... and that was in snow, with my aunty, cousin and mum - not through the canyons with a Marlboro Man as our guide!! No joke - Mark, the guy who ran the stables was a Marlboro Man (Had advertised Marlboro cigarettes back in his day and completely looked the part - cowboy hat, cowboy boots, jeans, white moustache and a Marlboro cigarette!) he was awesome!

Now let me just tell you, as we went through 'orientation' I began getting really really nervous... especially as they don't deem fit to issue you with a crash helmet as in good old Blighty. So I hawled myself onto Blunder, a beautiful old beast of a horse. Tess, the other instructor, told me she given me Blunder because he takes care of his passengers and, as she could sense my nerves, she gave me some well needed reassurance and off we trotted. Heart in mouth and reins in hand I was shaking like a leaf, but once Blunder and I had had words, he was every inch the gentleman Tess had told me he would be.

Steadying myself in the saddle, I decided to take my eyes away from the floor and soak in the surroundings - which were, again, just idyllic. Working our way up and down the treck, in and out of the tributaries of the Colorado River, I was well and truly in awe of everything around me. This was better than I had ever wished for, and I couldn't wipe the ridiculous grin off my face!

Two hours later, we arrived back and said goodbye to our hosts and horses. Driving away from Red Cliff Lodge, I couldn't help but think what it would be like to live there...

Coming back to reality, we didn't have anywhere to stay for that night, so over some questionable eggs we discussed our next lodgings... which turned out to be a sort of inn come cabin, so vastly different to the chains of motels we've been staying in...so what did I do to take advantage of where we were staying...? I did the laundry... two weeks worth of it.... lovely!

So here we are now, in Moab, in the only internet cafe in Southern Utah about to embark on another long journey to Phoenix. I'd rather stay here for another couple of weeks. But alas, we have to haul our tooshes down to Arizona. If our journey there is anything like it was to get here, it will be worth it.

Time is ticking on by, and soon we will be in Captiva, soaking in the Gulf's sun and swimming in the sea - but I wonder what other landscapes lie ahead of us, what other sights we'll see, who else we'll meet... ooo, I'm a little bit excited about that!!

Jen

Las Vegas - A Guilty Pleasure!

I had my reservations about Las Vegas, not knowing a thing about Black Jack or Poker - it was set to be a bit of a miss. My excitement, however broached as one of the songs on the CD my big bro had made me rocked out 'Viva Las Vegas' courtesy of Mr Presley... I was beyond excited - a little more so than Hollywood, I believe! So on we drove to our motel... not Caesar's Palace, but a sweet haven away from San Diego!

Although the stars live in Beverly Hills and Hollywood, driving onto the Las Vegas strip and knowing Brad Pitt and George Clooney had walked these streets, seen these casinos, sipped a G and T in the Bellagio, I was beside myself and as my first dollar was sucked into the first 'Lucky 7's' machine I think Callum saw a side to me that he never knew I had... a gambling side!

Alas - this lasted all of about half an hour before my bottom lip was once again tripping me up as 'the House' had once again won. The excitement and money gone, we decided to take a walk down 'The Strip'. Walking into The Bellagio simply took my breath away - how the other half live! Quite finely thank you very much! A quick scoot around, we finely decided we'd had enough of 'not belonging' and sulked out. But just as I was about to write it off as a rich man's play pen, I was near reduced to tears by the most outstanding spectacle - A fountain show... 'Fountain Show - Ha' I hear you laugh... but believe me - you have never seen anything like it. Andrea Bocelli and Sarah Brightman belted out 'Time To Say Goodbye' as the water shot up into the air, each separate fountain dancing with its partner, gently lit by beautiful lights - it was quite simply breath taking. I could have stayed there all night, but the fountains stopped, Andrea and Sarah were taken out of the cd player, and Cher started - time to say goodbye to the Bellagio and hello to Caesar's Palace next door.

Much of the same here, the casino not as impressive as it's neighbour; but the buildings, fantastic again. Las Vegas knows how to do it! Onto 'Paris' with it's miniature Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triumph - just brilliant. Not wanting to gamble any more of our holiday money, we retreated to our room, quite content with the sights of the evening.

I have another confession - another 'guilty pleasure' - I spent two hours inside of an Arcade today... please don't judge! I have to admit, I really did have a good time!! Having thrashed Callum twice on two driving games, I was well and truly into the swing of things! When he finally scored the equaliser, my first car's brakes were faulty and the second one had off traction - honestly! I never thought I'd see the day when I was slaying zombies, shooting Darth Vader, or driving a Ferrari around Italy - but today was it - and what a day it was. I released the inner child and had bags o' fun!!!

A-hem... back to the matter in hand - a Graduate trip around the States(!). We have one more night here then we're pushing on down to Phoenix. We'll be arriving in Captiva in just over two weeks, it's starting to go really fast now, now that I've settled in to the pace of things here. I'm really very excited about seeing the guys at Jensens, let's hope I don't get distracted by any more fountains or arcades!!!

Jen

Lion and Tigers and Bears...Oh My!

San Diego... A quick stop... And to be honest... I think Callum and I were glad of this. More about that later....But let me first tell you of the sheer terror I housed inside of myself as I climbed inside an American Automobile for the first time in my life. All I kept thinking was 'this is far too easy - why have they let me rent a car so easily?!' The keys were on the dashboard waiting for us and after we plugged in our hostel's name into the G.P.S, we were off...

This is a family site, so I won't swear...but Darn and Blast that was a scary first half hour on the wrong side of the road! The G.P.S was yelling 'turn right...turn right...TURN RIGHT... I couldn't turn right, the road was blocked off! 'Recalculating' was another favourite saying of the lovely lady behind the colourful screen. However, after numerous telephone calls to the seemingly lovely manager of our next hostel, a few more wrong turns, we were there. 7 miles in 1 hour, as my maths is what it is - I'm going to say that was GREAT!

Having parked up and ventured inside, we met our landlady - not to get personal, but Darn and Blast she scared me a little... The 'hostel', as advertised on the internet, was not a hostel...we were basically just staying in this woman's house for the fee of $50 dollars a night. She didn't even see fit to giving us a key. By the time we'd brought our stuff in and had the grand tour, we were shattered, grabbed a few beers from the quaint market next door and held ourselves up in our room.

The reason for this self imprisonment was two fold. Number One - Landlady had cornered me for the best part of an hour telling me her life history (nothing like the lovely Igor from Hollywood). Nobody else could speak and I'm pretty sure she was ever so slightly demonic! Number two - Landlady had shown us the 'communal area' (her living room) "Use it as it were your own, honey." Callum sat down to relax, watch a bit of TV, chill... Landlady didn't like him doing this, and took the remote clean off him...tres hospitable!

This odd behaviour being the reason we were now held up in our own room. We read and drank the few beers we bought from next door - and then it started.

First came George Michael, then Stevie Wonder, then Cher, a bit of All Saints, Blue and Celiene Dion... Landlady was wailing out every hit of each star. This singing/torture...went on for over 4 hours. Some made us laugh, some made us laugh until we cried, and some just made us plain cry. We considered scarpering, but she was right by the front door, and my case is as inconspicous as piece of Hot Chocolate Fudge cake in a Weight Watchers meeting.

So there we sat...waiting for her to stop. The wait went on and on and on some more until eventually we fell asleep. Lord knows what time she carried on til?!

Morning came and we were up early to get away from her asap! Still, she lurked and cornered us again... bless her, her heart, I'm sure, was in the right place. We told her we were off to the zoo - she gave us 27 other places better to go... we assured her we'd check them out. Asking her to lock our room, we eventually made it out of her clasp.

Now, this is where Landlady can be forgotten... San Diego Zoo - what a place!! We spent 5 hours snapping the animals on our cameras. From the Gorillas to the Giraffes, the Baboons to the Buffalo, the Crocodiles to the Koala Bears, it was fantastic. I really enjoyed our time spent there, Callum even more so I think!

Night two - yes...we went back! Now knowing what was best, we quickly nipped back in to Landlady's house to pick up a few bits and quickly made our excuses. However, after we'd eaten we went back for the whole evening.

Back in our room, we read, thanking our lucky stars that she wasn't belting out a Bassey Ballard - inconvientley the light remained on as we fell into our slumber... 1.30am came, and so did a violent bashing on our door, "Turn your light off... turn your light off... come on, wake up....turn your light off!"

Fair play - I can imagine my mum wanting my light switched off at night, but she would ask me calmly, not belt my door down. Lights swtiched off, asleep we fell; but not well... I had visions of her just walking into our room and rifiling through our stuff. Waking early, we packed and darted out of San Diego quicker than the Panther at the Zoo could ever dream to run.

5 hours later, we've made it to Las Vegas - somewhat happy to be out of the clutches of Landlady... in those fitful sleeps I swear I dreamt of being at Jensen's a few weeks early... it's a shame that's not reality!

Jen

Russians, Angelinos, Stars and Us

Taxi drivers, on the whole, tend to drive me a bit round the bend... (the unnecessary toot toot of their horns; the erratic driving; the shear antisocial'ness' of them - being the cause of this bend driving) - however; this was totally devoid when we climbed on board the taxi we took from Venice Beach to Hollywood.

'Russian Express' we seemed to have tickets for... thirty minutes later and we had Igor's full life history... why he left the Soviet Union, why he fled to the US and why he was now destined to take us out of the "devil's play area" and drop us off at the "best place in zee U.S". I loved him... he loved us... and we loved Hollywood!

So we made it out of the "devil's play area" to rub shoulders with the stars. Bidding our farewells to Igor and his taxi of tales, we realised we were staying right off Hollywood Blvd, practically in John Travolta's back garden!

It was early when we arrived - so what did they do, I hear you ask... We walked, explored walked some more and finally found ourselves in a TV studio audience, clapping and cheering for Jimmy Kimmel and his guests. Lisa Kudrow being our first 'Celeb sighting', I was suitably chuffed!

On our quest to find more stars, I convinced Callum that a sightseeing tour of Hollywood would be the right thing to do...so on we climbed and found ourselves on Rodeo Drive... I must take a moment to say that if I wasn't bound for Jensen's I would have stayed here until Julia Roberts and Richard Gere came back to shoot Pretty Woman 2...but alas, I hear it's not in the pipe line... I digress... So instead of waiting for Jules and Richi, I took my camera out ... 'change battery pack'... a moment I'd waited for since first watching the film and my camera is out of battery juice...typical!

A few snaps on Callum's camera later and my blind panic had subsided and we were on our way to the Beverley Centre... shopping... heat... towing along a 22 year old male... these things do not mix! Therefore, a 50 minute wait ensued and we were 'soon' back on our sight seeing tour bus... striving to peer further into Paramount Studios - I felt I was being called home by the mother ship! No more stars to see, we arrived back onto Hollywood Blvd and took in a film.

Back at the motel room (yes, that's right, we upgraded from Hostel to Motel!!) I couldn't help but feel 'penned in'. There's nowhere to really chill out in Hollywood. It's busy and never sleeps. There's nowhere to kick back with a beer and read, without being cooped up in your room. Now, who comes to the U.S for three months to sit in a motel room...not us!

So two more films later; a trip up to Universal Studios and plenty of photographs of the 'Hollywood Walk of Fame' we are set to depart for San Diego tomorrow.

I would definitely come back to Hollywood, like I said, the 'industry' side of it really appeals to me, and who can resist a bit of star searching? I feel safe here, there are lots of police - LA's finest as Callum refers to them and the locals aren't nearly as erratic as in the "devil's playground". But there's no beach, no one to look after you, and I'm starting to miss home.

Captiva and Jensen's seem a long way off... I'm losing the sounds of the waves in the hubbub of Hollywood... only 23 days to go!!

Apologies and More

My apologies to those who are following us - we had the luxury, in Venice Beach, of a computer in our room - Hollywood doesn't afford us this luxury; so we are currently in a rather swish Internet Cafe... I am therefore sorry for the delay! Also, apologies go out for the lack of photographs - no where has allowed us to download anything yet...so watch this space!

I say 'followers' in the loosest of terms...we have one (so it says on our admin page) and I know for a fact that this is my mum (Hi Mum!) so join up guys, and you'll find where we are on our way to Jensen's!! (It's free!)

So, like I say, we've moved away from Venice Beach now, but let me recall the time spent there...

Venice Beach wasn't originally on my very well planned out route, however Callum expressed an interest and I'm glad we indulged! Although our extensive room (including kitchenette, shower room, two double beds and computer) was good value for money... there was a lingering smell of feet and damp... usually this would make me somewhat uncomfortable, but by the time we'd relaxed with the very laid back locals, it didn't become a huge problem... (Not a Huge problem, but let's face it, it's not Captiva! And it did actually make me feel uncomfortable if I'm to be honest!!)

It was a hop, skip and a jump away from the beach itself - bliss... Well, I'm thinking 'bliss' as Van Morrison is singing his melodies into my well relaxed ears, while the California sun beams down on my rather white face; but as soon as one of the 'eccentric' locals decides she's been wronged by her boyfriend - all the bliss leaves with the waves as the shrieking commenced... Don't stare, Jenni, you musn't stare... luckily (as I peered on over my sunglasses) the well rehearsed 'Venitians' had it all boxed off as soon as the first 'Cheap Tattoos Here' sign fell over!

So back it was to concentrating on that relaxing - Van Morrison back on - check; Sun tan lotion on - check; Jensen's hospitality and QUIET beaches..? Not yet... I can survive these 'character' hostels - it's all fine, but let me think of those waves again... ... much better.

Venice Beach, on the whole was great. You have to embrace your 'inner hippy', but once you've managed to do this, you'll be fine. We only stayed three days, I think I was on the cusp...any more and I may have had to change Van Morrison for Bob Marley! Amongst the street vendors, the skaters and the locals - it could make for a very interesting holiday.

Would I go back?... No, I'd go to Jensen's!

I'll tell you about Hollywood soon...

Jen

Preparation, Flights, Hostels - Can we get to Jensen's NOW please?!

Excitable, tired and apprehensive - I arrived at Manchester Airport at 5.15am, October 9th armed with my travelling companion, Callum; my passport and a stupendously oversized bag - the trip I'd been planning for 18 years was finally about to begin. But planning, as it is, always has it's flaws - especially, apparently, when I do it! A delay at Manchester to Heathrow was a bumpy start which was about to get worse...

'You'll need a Visa if you want to stay for this long' - Maths not being my strong point, a lovely man told me I'd over booked our trip and we'd have to change our return date... Great! Double great when I had to apologise to Callum a million and three times that we'd be flying home on his birthday...oops!

Getting me through were those calming sounds of the waves lapping the beach houses at Jensen's - something I haven't heard for pushing seven years.

Managing to finally get into the U.S after a relatively comfortable 10 hour flight across 'The Pond'... 'There may be a slight delay, ma'am - just a technical glitch with Immigration' - another wait...more calming waves...memories of sunsets...

At last...! Arriving in Downtown San Francisco, finding our first hostel; falling through the door... bunk beds; 'Psycho' style shower; and a patio out side for al and sundry to see our three month luggage count... Calming waves...sunsets...white deserted beaches... maybe a quick call to the Jensen's resort to say we may be early!

I jest - it wasn't too bad! The very fact that the lady at reception gave me a leaflet signalling that we'd arrived during Fleet Week was enough to restore a big smile on my face - that and I was doing something I had been dreaming about since I found out what dreaming was.

So after my bottom lip had been safely reposted to under my top (first time being away from home and all!!); we managed to take a walk around The City and our first evening was taken finding our bearings. San Francisco, being a lot smaller than I had imagined, took care of our daily exercise with the most amazingly steep hills - but did not disappoint. Friendly people, great food, brilliant weather...

Our first full day in San Francisco, after a surprisingly comfortable stay in the 'Norman Bates' Hostel', found us at Pier 39 - apparantly it's well known over here?? I can see why - great place, fantastic for the tourist in you, every souvenier you could need - and a Hooter's for Callum. Great.

So after two nights under Mr Bates' watchful eye, we moved to China Town for our final night in San Francisco. At this stage I must point out that the San Franciscans that we met were all hospitable fellows, however when we arrived at this second hostel, and arrived at a room on a corridor worthy of Stephen King's 'The Shining' - the bottom lip was once again shaking!

Opening, with trepidation I may add, the door in the morning, we made a quick exit and made our way down to the piers again... A quick trip on a boat with a booming voice over telling us about Al Capone and Alcatraz and watching the Blue Angels (That's the US Navy Flight Boys) putting on a show that was so good I'm sure I even heard 'wow' uttered from under Callum's breath - our 'Frisco Fix' was filled.

Next stop, L.A... a 'swift' 8 hour journey from the Greyhound boys and we're here. The sun's already down, but it's warm and the music from the saxophones at Venice Beach are going to send me to sleep - that and those waves at Jensen's...

Jen.